The woods go on forever along the winding road leading from Vanadzor to Alaverdi. White clouds hang from green trees along deep and shallow gorges.
Around a bend about 15 kilometers past Vanadzor and near the village of Vahangnadzor, a sign in Armenian greets travelers: “Welcome to Gugark Camp!”
Visitors are welcomed only after clearing details at a gate from which information is passed on to the grand matron of Gugark, Seyfulina Danielyan, who has been greeting guests and dismissing difficulties for 32 years on this ground in the lush Lori province about 100 kilometers north of Yerevan.